The Pavlomir winery is a model of the contemporary revival of viticulture in the Vinodol valley, a region with a long but interrupted wine tradition. Founded in the early 1990s by the Palinkas family, which, by choosing the Pavlomir site, historically known as Valis Vinearia, took an active role in restoring neglected vineyard land. Today the winery farms grapes across several dozen hectares, integrating production, cellar work and enotourism into a single, cohesive operation.
Owner Miroslav Palinkas proudly points out that the estate’s varietal identity rests on championing the indigenous Zlahtina, a native white variety of the Kvarner coast, through which Pavlomir contributes both to preserving the region’s wine heritage and to its market success. There is scarcely a stylistic interpretation of Zlahtina for which the winery does not have an answer.
We tasted no fewer than six different Zlahtinas. The first was the delicate San Marino sparkling wine, made by the traditional method, with fine fruit aromas and high freshness. It has a slender body, as befits Zlahtina, with a recognisable varietal identity. Next came a young Zlahtina, a simple wine that faithfully conveys the character of the variety. It shows pronounced aromatic intensity, a fruity-floral character and crisp freshness.
The Zlahtina Grand Cru showed a marked step up from the previous wine, above all in structure and length on the palate. Grape selection, a short cold maceration and several months of ageing on the lees pushed this wine toward the outer limits of the variety. The aromatic intensity is dialled down in order to gain breadth. The palate is full and rich, dominated by a juicy freshness that makes the mouth water and calls for the next sip. Medium to full-bodied, with excellent harmony and balance.
There followed a descent into the cellar and a tasting of various Zlahtinas at the source, straight from stainless steel tanks, concrete eggs, and oak and acacia barrels of different sizes. Since these wines are not yet on the market, we can only hint that very exciting new releases await from Pavlomir, among which we particularly liked a Zlahtina raised in acacia barrels.
Alongside Zlahtina, the estate also develops international varieties, striking a balance between local identity and market competitiveness. The finest example is one of Croatia’s best sparkling wines, Pavlomir 1288, whose base wine is a blend of 50% chardonnay, 25% pinot blanc and 25% Zlahtina. It has striking structure, with a full 13.5% alcohol easily carried by its high extract. Aged for more than four years on the lees, it is rich and mature on the nose and palate. Freshness and richness intertwine in the mouth; the texture is creamy, and it is irresistibly reminiscent of certain Champagnes.
It is less well known that the Palinkas family also produces an excellent cabernet sauvignon which, after many years of ageing in oak, reaches the market only when fully ready, with mature tannins, harmonious and balanced.
Finally, it should be stressed that beyond being one of the leading wine producers on the Kvarner today, Pavlomir is also a fine example of the successful revival of a wine region, where tradition, migratory experience and a modern approach to production and market have come together in a sustainable and distinctive wine project.
