The variety is Solaris, an interspecific crossing that draws its genes from Riesling, Pinot Gris and Muscat Ottonel. The vintage is 2023, and the wine bursts with freshness alongside pronounced floral-herbal aromas. The palate is refined, vibrant and juicy. Its 12 percent alcohol lends seriousness without weighing it down, and it is almost impossible to tell that it was not made from conventional grapes.
Given that the vineyard sits on Debelo brdo above the Krbava plain, at 600 metres above sea level, we may rightly ask whether Lika, in this age of climate change, is a new wine destination. At least when it comes to PIWI varieties, which are partially resistant to fungal disease. Add to that the fact that these crossings, which have taken on almost all the traits of noble varieties, ripen very early, before the temperatures fall and the autumn rains arrive, and it is legitimate to expect the planting of new vineyards in Lika.
Tomislav Antunovic is a vintner from Kutjevo (the heart of the Slavonia wine region) who planted a vineyard in Lika, and he presented his Lika wine in Zagreb alongside his Kutjevo bottlings from classic wine varieties. Among them, the Grasevina Luna 2024 deserves particular attention. It is firmly built with pronounced varietal typicity. Moderately intense aromas of white fruit interweave with discreet herbal notes, while the palate reveals depth. The wine is full-bodied, refined, warm and soft, and a pleasant citrus freshness gives it complete balance. It has a long, memorable finish, fully ready to drink yet with the potential to age. At a retail price of 10.90 euros, it offers great value.
The Omega 2023 also merits mention. It is a good Pinot Noir, typical of the Kutjevo vineyard district. Its colour is deeper and its body fuller than is usual for this variety, yet it remains recognisable and well composed. Aromas of cherry and ripe morello mingle with fine notes of oak, while forest mushrooms emerge in the background. The palate follows on from the nose, partly warm, with high freshness and rich, ripe tannins.
25 May 2025
