Written by: Tomo Jakopović, “The Wine Hunter”
Kratošija — as our neighbours in Montenegro call Crljenak, or Tribidrag — is probably the most exciting variety of the Dinaric-Mediterranean region. Approached properly, it gives wines in which power and elegance, warmth and freshness, playfulness and maturity intertwine. And these are precisely the defining traits of the 2023 Kratošija from Montenegro’s Keković winery.
The wine makes a direct entrance, like an old acquaintance, offering at first sip the very best this great variety can give — while at the same time stirring intrigue, demanding a thorough approach on the way to a final verdict. A distinctly terroir-driven wine, impeccably crafted, with the clear signature of a winemaker who did not step in front of the wine but simply steered it the right way to draw the best from the variety.
It shows a lively ruby colour with bright rims; swirled in the glass, it falls quickly, its density suggesting seriousness.
The nose is fine and layered: aromas of ripe sour cherry, cherry, blackcurrant and blueberry appear first, followed by raspberry and wild strawberry laced with a gentle wisp of tobacco smoke, before spicy notes break through — discreet scents of sage and winter savory.
Very consistently, every aromatic component carries over unmistakably onto the palate. It is fine, warm and soft, while mineral freshness and an abundance of ripe tannins raise its energy and hold the balance. Just enough alcohol not to burden the wine. A measured touch of noble oak has shaped its finesse, like a painter applying the final stroke of colour in a moment of inspiration. The wine is firm, full-bodied, timeless in feel, built for the long haul. As the pressure of fruit eases with time and the piquant, spicy notes grow stronger, it could develop into a great wine. It will be fascinating to watch it evolve and to measure time passing by it.
A gastronomically versatile wine, it will pair well with prosciutto, aged cheeses, roast lamb, beef steaks and dishes of noble game.
