Written by: Krešimir Kožić, Vinski klub
When did you last drink a serious white Burgundy for under 100 euros? We are not talking here about wines that carry the Bourgogne appellation and end up on supermarket shelves, but about labels that genuinely represent the character and quality on which Burgundy built its cult status.
If you are a lover of white Burgundy, you will probably struggle to recall such an example. It is equally likely that you find it hard to accept the fact that prices of these wines have, over the past decade, reached levels that are increasingly difficult to justify rationally.
That is precisely why the question arises: is there a serious alternative to the mythical white wines of Burgundy?
Why has white Burgundy become so expensive?
There are several reasons behind the price increases.
First of all, demand for the finest Burgundies is greater today than ever before. Many labels are allocated in advance, and certain vintages sell out even before their official release.
The second important factor is the emergence of a new class of extremely wealthy collectors, particularly in Asia, who have embraced Burgundy as the wine world’s new holy grail of sorts. Such demand has pushed prices further upwards.
The third reason lies in the influence of wine criticism. High scores and the enormous media attention certain wines have received in recent years have contributed significantly to the market euphoria.
Serious alternatives do exist
Over the course of numerous blind tastings I have witnessed situations in which top New World Chardonnays competed on equal terms with prestigious wines from Burgundy — and sometimes even surpassed them.
At first I considered such results to be exceptions. But after several comparative tastings it became clear this was no coincidence. In certain segments of the market there are wines offering a comparable level of quality at a fraction of the price.
One of the most striking experiences was a blind tasting at which Catena Zapata Chardonnay White Bones 2020 outperformed Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Pucelles 2019.
The result was met with disbelief among the assembled wine connoisseurs. After the labels were revealed, the tasting was repeated to check whether the first impressions had been accurate. The outcome remained the same. The Argentine Chardonnay, priced five to six times lower, took victory over one of Burgundy’s most respected producers.
Naturally, such a result will not repeat itself at every tasting.
Recently I had the opportunity to compare several great New World Chardonnays with one of the most coveted wines in the world – Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne 2016. This time victory went to Burgundy, while second place was taken by Lingua Franca Chers Amis Chardonnay 2017.
These are wines separated by an enormous difference in price – roughly forty times, in favour of the Lingua Franca. In my judgement, the difference in quality was minimal – just one or two points. In other words, if the Coche-Dury was a 100-point wine, the Lingua Franca was not far behind, at around 98 points.
Such results confirm that top white Burgundy today represents a luxury for most wine lovers, while comparable quality can be found at considerably more accessible prices.
Where to look for alternatives?
If we are talking about serious Chablis, especially wines of Premier Cru and Grand Cru classification, an alternative is very hard to find. Chablis possesses such a singular identity that it is almost impossible to replicate faithfully anywhere else in the world.
With the white wines of the Côte de Beaune, however, the situation is different.
Among my favourites from the excellent 2022 vintage are:
- Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne 2022
- Henri Germain Meursault Premier Cru Perrières 2022
- Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Pucelles 2022
- Jean-Claude Bachelet Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Blanchot Dessus 2022
These are outstanding wines whose prices range between 250 and 650 euros per bottle.
As serious alternatives I would single out:
- Au Bon Climat Sanford & Benedict Chardonnay 2022 (California)
- Lingua Franca Sisters Chardonnay 2022 (Oregon)
- Catena Zapata Chardonnay White Bones 2023 (Argentina)
- Baettig Los Primos Chardonnay 2023 (Chile)
- Vasse Felix Heytesbury Chardonnay 2023 (Australia)
Their prices generally range between 70 and 90 euros, which makes them exceptionally attractive compared with their Burgundian role models.
As for Village and Regional Chardonnays from Burgundy, good alternatives can also be found within France itself, above all among the non-oxidative styles of Chardonnay from the Jura. The German and Austrian interpretations of the variety are also worth attention, as are the New World countries already mentioned – and New Zealand certainly should not be overlooked.
When it comes to Croatian wines, in my experience so far I have yet to taste a Chardonnay that could compete on equal terms with the best wines listed in this text.
Croatia has several very good Chardonnay producers, but their finest labels currently reach the level of good regional Burgundies. A few Croatian examples can be compared with the Village classification, but then another problem often appears – the price.
In this text we are not looking for a wine of equal quality at an equal price, but for a wine of comparable quality that is markedly more affordable.
To lovers of great white Burgundy I would recommend exploring, with an open mind, the finest Chardonnays of Oregon, California, Argentina, Chile, Australia and New Zealand.
In many cases such wines will not merely meet expectations – they will offer a better ratio of price to quality than their Burgundian models. Sometimes they will even surpass them.
And yet, wine is never a matter of quality alone. Emotion, tradition, prestige and personal preference are always present in it. That is precisely why a label from Burgundy may still move you more than an objectively equal or even better wine from another part of the world.
And that is perfectly fine. Great wines are not only a matter of quality, but also of emotion, context and personal experience. But once the power of the label is set aside, it becomes clear that some of the world’s most exciting Chardonnays today do not necessarily come from Burgundy.
