Written by: Krešimir Kožić, Vinski klub
Not long ago an acquaintance of mine, a great wine enthusiast and a passionate lover of Sauvignon Blanc, asked me which wine I considered the finest white of New Zealand. He probably expected a different answer, but I said Kumeu River Mate’s Vineyard Chardonnay.
This is not merely one of the best white wines of New Zealand, but a Chardonnay that has achieved the status of a global wine icon. What is particularly interesting, especially given our own circumstances, is the story of this New Zealand winery’s success and its Croatian roots.
The story begins in 1937, when Mijo and Kate Brajković left their native Dalmatian village of Živogošće and moved to New Zealand. Like many of their compatriots at the time, they believed that a brave new world awaited them on the other side of the globe. Naturally, they took with them the tradition of growing vines and making wine that they had learned in their homeland.
They arrived that same year and first worked in orchards and other people’s vineyards in West Auckland. In 1944 they bought their first property in the town of Kumeu and planted their first own vineyard, then named San Marino Vineyards.
In their new homeland they successfully applied the knowledge brought from Živogošće. Over the years the winery grew and, through persistent work and dedication, earned cult status first in New Zealand and then around the world.
In time the winery was taken over by their son Mate, who in 1990 decided to rework the old family vineyards and planted a new one devoted entirely to Chardonnay, later named Mate’s Vineyard. Sadly, Mate died in 1992 and did not live to see the first harvest, which followed in March of the next year.
That vintage reached the market in 1994, exactly on the fiftieth anniversary of the family’s arrival in Kumeu. Mate’s Vineyard became the first New Zealand wine to receive a perfect 100 points from one of the most respected international wine critics. It confirmed the standing of a wine considered today one of the greatest expressions of Chardonnay outside Burgundy.
Burgundy has for centuries been regarded as the reference region for the world’s greatest Chardonnays. That is precisely why the success of Kumeu River carries additional weight.
In 2015 the well-known British wine merchant Farr Vintners organised what is today a legendary blind tasting of Chardonnay. The most respected wine experts from around the world tasted the wines and compared Kumeu River with the most expensive French Chardonnays of Premier Cru and Grand Cru classification.
Facing Kumeu River were the wines of the legendary Burgundian houses Lafon, Leflaive and Sauzet. In three of the four rounds of tasting, the wines of the Brajkovich family took outright victory over Burgundy, while in one round they shared first place.
The experts admitted, to their own surprise, that they had not recognised at all that they were drinking a wine from the New World. The results resounded through the wine world. Kumeu River was no longer seen as an excellent New Zealand winery, but as a producer capable of competing on equal terms with the greatest names of Burgundy.
What makes this story even more remarkable is the price of Kumeu River wines. As I have pointed out several times in earlier texts, a fine New World Chardonnay offers extraordinary value for money compared with famous Burgundy.
Wine critics often write that if New World wines carried a French label, their price would be at least four times higher. That applies to the wines of Kumeu River in particular.
And so the story of the descendants of Dalmatian labourers from Živogošće grew into one of the greatest successes of modern New Zealand winemaking. They created wines that stand shoulder to shoulder in quality with the greatest Burgundian names, while remaining available at a price rarely seen in today’s wine world.
The most important Chardonnays of Kumeu River
Mate’s Vineyard. The winery’s flagship. In quality many critics compare it with the finest Burgundian Grand Cru wines. It is marked by depth, complexity and exceptional ageing potential.
Hunting Hill. A more elegant and linear style, with pronounced freshness and minerality. It is often compared with the best Premier Cru wines of Puligny-Montrachet.
Coddington Vineyard. The most opulent style among their single-vineyard labels. A rich, creamy and highly layered Chardonnay.
The secret of Kumeu River lies not only in old vineyards and an outstanding location, but in a distinctly Burgundian approach to production. The grapes are picked by hand, fermentation runs on natural yeasts, and the wines mature in French oak barrels with carefully controlled use of new wood. The aim is not to produce monumental wines of power, but wines of precision, minerality and elegance.
It can also be said that Kumeu River has developed a clearly recognisable style, one that wine experts around the world increasingly value and recognise. It is present in all their wines, so you can feel it even in the entry-level Village Pinot Gris and Village Chardonnay.
Today the Brajkovich family nurtures an exceptional bond with their native Živogošće, with Dalmatia and with Croatia. Although they have become major global wine stars, they have never forgotten their origins.
Members of the family, including chief winemaker Michael Brajkovich, visit Croatia regularly. During those visits Michael often holds exclusive presentations for Croatian winemakers, sommeliers and journalists. It was my honour to take part in one of them.
Michael Brajkovich often points out that he owes the work ethic that shaped him precisely to his origins and to the example of hard work and persistence set by his grandfather and father. Those, he says, are the values he is most proud of. It is worth noting that Michael Brajkovich is the first New Zealander to earn the prestigious title of Master of Wine.
The Brajkovich family has left an indelible mark on the modern history of New Zealand winemaking. Their success shows how dedication, knowledge and long-term vision can create wines that transcend the borders of countries and wine regions.
If you have not yet tasted Kumeu River, it is time to change that. It is rare to find a winery that offers world class, an authentic style and such a convincing ratio of price to quality all at once. In the world of wine, that is a combination not to be missed.
