From the Danube to the Sutla, along the Sava and from the Drava to the Mirna — these are the vineyards and wineries that sent the Croatian samples to the major Frankovka judging at Zagreb’s Wine & Friends bar. From Istria they came, naturally, under the local name Borgonja, and among 23 Croatian wines from this great Central European variety the 11 judges named an Istrian the finest of all. It is Borgonja Rožoljo 2019 by the Agapito winery from Marčenegla near Buzet. The owner, Paolo Agapito, named the wine after the fond words of his late grandfather Milenko, that borgonja is like rožolj — the local name for rose liqueur. As for the Croatian wines, the second- and third-best rated came from Feričanci in Slavonia: Feravino Miraz Frankovka 2019 and Lingua Franka 2020.
The judging also featured wines from Slovakia, Hungary, the Fruška Gora part of Serbia, Austria and Slovenia — almost the whole of the former Austro-Hungarian monarchy. The variety’s names are recognisable in the languages of all these countries: it is Frankovka in Croatia and Serbia, Frankovka modrá in Slovakia, Modra Frankinja in Slovenia, Blaufränkisch in Austria and Kékfrankos in Hungary. This reflects the Central European spirit of a variety that buds early and ripens late, giving the grapes time to develop slowly without skipping any stage. The finest Frankovka can recall robust Cabernet Sauvignon on the nose, yet in body they are closer to elegant Pinot Noir. 
The 66 samples in total were enjoyed by judges Prof. Dr. Ivan Pejić, Franjo Francem M.Sc., Ina Bednar, Jana Koščec, Željko Suhadolnik, Ivan Dropuljić, Siniša Medenica, Ivo Kozarčanin, Zoltán Győrffy, Tomo Jakopović and Darko Lugarić. The wines were served by the judging’s organiser Ivana Pranjić, wine promoter from the Cork Croatia portal, and Ivan Štefanac of the Krauthaker winery. The highest rated — better even than ours — were three wines from Hungary’s Villány: Jackfall Kékfrankos 2020, Stier Pincészet Kékfrankos 2021 and Heumann Kékfrankos Reserve 2018. 
And the first Slovak wine, too, placed ahead of the best Croatians: Fyrmonia Kékfrankos Frankovka Modra 2022. Behind ours, the best-rated Slovenian was Modra Frankinja 2022 by Pinterič from Bizeljsko. The first among the Austrians is Kollwentz Blaufränkisch Leithakalk 2022 from Burgenland, and from Serbia Molovin Inat 2020 by the Vinčić winery from Fruška Gora. After the pleasant but demanding work in the rooms of the LuMa Wine & Friends bar, the judges enjoyed a well-earned fine lunch prepared for them by Tomo Marković, a former MasterChef contestant. With Frankovka, of course!
Photographs: Matej Marjanović
26.11.2025.
