In the flood of advice and uninformed advisers on food and wine pairing, it is important to stick to the techniques and principles grounded in scientifically based facts — only then do you reach that essential point where the dish elevates the wine and the wine, in turn, underlines the dish. Malvazija does not appear in every possible genre of white wine the way Graševina does, but the range of dishes and ingredients that this supple and thoroughly exciting variety accompanies unerringly is impressive. That fact carries even more weight considering the economic importance of the variety, its omnipresence in Istria and the sensational gastronomic offer that stands as one of the cornerstones of Istrian tourism. Alongside the most popular and, by volume, most significant fresh Malvazijas, and the structured, aged ones of which there are fewer, stylistic renditions such as sparkling, macerated and dessert wines appear ever more often — quite enough for Malvazija to keep worthy company with Istria’s main gastronomic aces.
Simple sparkling wines made by the tank method are best as aperitifs, but they can also accompany simpler, fattier spreads at the opening of a dinner.
Aged sparkling wines produced by the classic method will pair well with caviar, raw shellfish (oysters above all), fish carpaccio and cold seafood salads…
Young, fresh Malvazijas will follow a whole series of dishes: cold fish starters, delicate white fish simply prepared, pasta with lighter sauces, lighter risottos (such as primavera), chicken…
Young Malvazijas with more pronounced structure and minerality will go with grilled white fish, grilled scampi and prawns, moderately piquant cured meats and young cheeses, rabbit, snails… If they are full of richness, or carry a touch of residual sugar, they will sit well with piquant Asian cuisine.
Aged Malvazijas are a good friend of the classic barbecue, roast pork and oily fish… The more mineral ones will suit spiny lobster and lobster, while those with pronounced aromatics belong with dishes built around white truffle.
Macerated Malvazijas will love more serious meat dishes such as veal, pork belly or roast duck…
Sweet Malvazijas can be served with fruit desserts — taking care that the dessert is never sweeter than the wine — while the intensely sweet, concentrated ones suit goose liver or blue-veined cheeses.
These are recommendations to help you choose a dish for a given style of Malvazija; the choice is always a personal one.
Let your palate be the only criterion!
Written by: Tomo Jakopović
