Written by: Krešimir Kožić, Vinski klub
As a wine region, Oregon has been exciting for wine professionals and “clairvoyant” enthusiasts for some time now. I have to admit I was somewhat sceptical about Oregon wines.
And then something unexpected happened…
Three blind tastings changed my mind and turned me into a great admirer of Oregon wines.
The first of these was also the most striking for me. It was sometime after the first lockdown in 2020, when a group of wine professionals and enthusiasts — myself among them — tasted five 2017 Pinot Noirs blind (three Burgundies — two Premier Cru and one Grand Cru, one from New Zealand’s Central Otago, and one from Oregon, USA). Among them was the hugely famous Armand Rousseau Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru. Yet the surprise winner was the Beaux Frères “The Beaux Frères Vineyard”.
A few months later, in the same company, we repeated the gathering with the theme of 2018 Chardonnay. Once again it was Burgundy against the rest of the world (the same line-up of regions as with the Pinot Noir). The most famous wine this time was Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru. History, remarkably, repeated itself and the winner was Lingua Franca Chardonnay “Chers Amis”.
A few months ago, in our local wine circle, we repeated the Chardonnay exercise, this time with the 2022 vintage. There was even a village wine from the famous Burgundy estate Domaine Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet. But the winner was the entry-level Lingua Franca Chardonnay “Avni”.
Oregon is the only region outside Burgundy that occasionally beats the Burgundian classics in blind tastings.
How did Oregon become a serious rival to Burgundy?
After a closer analysis of several Oregon Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, I reached an incontestable conclusion: these wines completely dismantle the prejudices about American wine from these two varieties. Those prejudices are usually based on Californian examples, which are the progenitors of the well-known American style — fuller body, greater oak influence, higher alcohol.
Oregon wines combine Burgundian precision, local terroir and a modern oenological philosophy, creating a style that is at once classic and authentically American.
Oregon’s climate is predominantly cool, with a strong Pacific influence, while the summers are long, warm and dry, with pronounced night-time cooling. It is precisely this temperature amplitude that preserves the freshness and acidity so key to the elegance of Oregon wines.
Oregon has 18 AVAs (American Viticultural Areas) — in principle the local American equivalent of an appellation. Six of them lie in the best-known area, the Willamette Valley, which produces 91% of all Oregon Pinot Noir. The Willamette Valley sits 75 km from the Pacific coast, sheltered by the Cascade Mountains to the east and the Coast Range to the west, and open to the cold winds of the Van Duzer Corridor, which enter through the only major gap in the Coast Range. The most famous AVA is Eola-Amity Hills, notable for its volcanic soils.
Differences in topography and geology within the Willamette Valley recall the nuances of Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, allowing the creation of markedly terroir-driven wines.
The best sites in the Willamette Valley can already stand shoulder to shoulder with top Burgundian vineyards.
Alongside Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the other varieties of significant influence are Pinot Gris and, more sporadically, Riesling.
Despite the EU–US trade war, Oregon wines are still affordable, especially compared with their Burgundian models.
So what are the best wines from Oregon like?
The Chardonnay is always elegant, powerful and measured, with a consistently high acidity that holds everything in place. It is accompanied by aromas of ripe citrus, stone fruit and impeccably integrated, gentle spice notes from oak.
The Pinot Noir is equally impressive, with aromas of red berries, forest mushrooms, balsamic sweetness and blood orange. It is always medium-bodied with an almost weightless ease of drinking, silky yet defined tannins, good supporting acidity and impressive overall length.
An important curiosity about Oregon is the strong French influence on the region, manifested through a large number of French oenologists who took up the challenge of creating a distinctive Oregon style. Their contribution to Oregon’s success in the wine world is enormous, visible even in the names of many wineries.
Recommended Oregon wineries:
- Archery Summit – known for deep, textured Pinot Noirs
- Beaux Frères – a cult winery, Burgundian approach
- Domaine Roy & Fils – French pedigree, precision
- Evening Land – one of the most important terroir projects
- Lingua Franca – perhaps the closest thing to Burgundy outside Burgundy
- Montinore – biodynamics, excellent value
Oregon wines are exceptionally good and often underrated on points against far more expensive Burgundy. Investment in Oregon winemaking is currently rising, and the best of Oregon is still ahead of us.
Although these wines are hard to find on our local market, I suggest you make the extra effort and get hold of one. Perhaps, like me, you will be very pleasantly surprised and put Oregon on your “must” list when it comes to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
